The black Cuillin had a surprise for us: we discovered there how much fun scrambling is. If I had to name just one reason to visit Scotland again, it would be those uninviting, dark mountains.
The black hills
Heavy rain starts to pour down just when we arrive at the car park next to Glenbrittle campsite. We cannot believe our luck – even in full rain armor, we would have been soaking wet had we left just ten minutes earlier. Our goal for today is Coire Logan, the most easily accessible corrie in the Cuillin.
The ascend is long, and all the good views are behind us in the direction of the sea. In front of us, there is just something that looks like the entrance to Mordor, a passage into black, uninviting hills almost entirely hidden by clouds. Are we really doing all this exhausting hiking to get away from the beautiful seaside and into this?
Shortly before we reach the goal, just where it starts to get really steep, there is no clear path anymore and we have to scramble up amidst stones and flowing water, and it is awesome. I wish all Europe was full of short hikes like that. We are neither fast nor particularly skillful, and it is not a difficult scramble at all. But using our hands to get up there is so much more fun, it is worth all the slow and relentless ascend we had to do before!
Up there, we are inside a corrie, all with black mountains around us. Presumably a spectacular sight – if the weather was just a little better. As it is, we do not see much. The wind is constantly blowing new clouds into the corrie and it is, hum, rather uncomfortable up there. We hide behind some stones for a while, eat another Snickers, and descend again. Descending is of course, as always, more difficult than going up. On the way back, we pass by a waterfall and the view of the sea is always in front of us.
We have enough time left to also visit the other two main natural attractions of this area. The first on our way are the Fairy Pools, a series of waterfalls and small, clear pools just a ~15 minute walk from a car park by the road between Carbost and Glenbrittle.
They are enchanting, not quite as much as the similarly named Fairy Glen in the north of Skye, but still nice. More like a peaceful Sunday activity for families but with no fences and signs, and there is still a small river that has to be crossed by jumping from one deformed and wet stone to the other.
West of Carbost, this is a beautiful beach on private land with black and white sand, a waterfall and a clear blue sea.
At low tide, it is a really beautiful place. ( A friend visits during high tide just a week after we leave so and doesn’t like it at all) T. exploring all accessible area and me taking pictures of the clean and beautiful sand, we enjoy Talisker bay a lot
Time of visit: June 2014.